Easter holiday in Belgrade

This Easter I did my first trip alone to a city where I had never been before and where I knew no one. And to a city which was practically dead due to the Easter holidays. I was up for an adventure and with low expectations you can never be disappointed.

Friday morning I took the train to Belgrade. Everyone has told me never to take the train in the Balkans because they are always running late, but during this trip they were on schedule. The journey took some six hours, but three albums of Justin Timberlake on my phone and the landscape kept me surprisingly well entertained. I arrived in a rainy Belgrade and first thing got lost as the street names are written in cyrillic script and the instructions of how to walk were in the alphabet I am used to. Another good reason to carry a smartphone is that it has a map and navigation so in no time I found my way to the hostel. 

Belgrade is known for its nightlife so that had to be checked. When I arrived there was a group of people playing cards and once I had settled in I joined their card games. How far a card game can bring? My solo traveling ended right when it had started and I found company to explore the local pubs and clubs - lucky me!

The gang I joined was not so much into sightseeing so I went on my own. Actually there was not much to be seen because due to the Easter holidays the museums and stores were all closed. Fortunately the weather was good and I could just walk around getting a feeling what kind of city this is and taking pictures. The only places which were open were obviously the public ones - the ruins of the fortress of Belgrade and the churches - and Belgrade has many nice parks. And, time actually flies doing nothing but walking around and occasionally stopping for a tea or to eat something.

Easter Sunday was the big celebration in Belgrade, and when I stopped for a coffee the waiter surprised me with bringing salt to my table. Despite the minor language issue he managed to explain that it was meant to be put on the boiled and coloured eggs which were in a basket on the table. I as a tourist ate it immediately of course - most random thing to eat egg with tea - but lovely tradition.

I was surprised how lively the city was even this Easter holidays, and I think the city can thank the many tourists coming to Belgrade for that judging by the sizes of the groups of people walking around as well. Compared to Zagreb the city center was a lot bigger, and at least on Saturday many people were out despite the fact that nothing but the cafes were open. Street musicians were entertaining and people were selling souvenirs to tourists. However, the first thing I saw of Belgrade was high concrete apartment buildings, housing that reminded of the informal settlements I've seen in Tanzania and a lot of trash lying around. Around the churches I also saw young Roma women and Roma children begging, and getting angry when they were asked to leave. Even though the city itself was warm and welcoming, under the pretty surface are problems which one might not see if not really digging into the question, as is often the case.

Zagreb really starts to feel like home, because I was happy to get back on Monday and go to work again today and glad to see the many familiar faces I come across everyday cycling to work and entering the office building. In the middle of reading something from the computer today I started feeling strange - either the building was shaking or I was about to pass out. Nothing was wrong with me (many of my colleageus have been ill lately so could have been that) but instead I had experienced my first earthquake. It did not last long and was not very strong, but long and strong enough to actually really feel it. For some time after it I still felt a little funny in my stomach, almost like travel sickness. All sorts of experiences I am gaining during my internship!